Indeed, turn right on leaving the museum and you’ll find the marketplace where vendors still conduct a busy trade — today, in flowers, crafts and leather goods — nearly eight centuries after its charter was granted by King Henry III. For a traditional cockney lunch, try Robins Pie and Mash on South Street. A savory pie (beef, vegetarian or vegan) with mashed potatoes and the parsley sauce known as liquor runs around 5 pounds (about $6), or £9 with a side of jellied, cross-sectioned eels.
If you’d prefer a late breakfast, head to the Teapot Cafe. Founded in 1953 by Walter Mole, a soldier and former prisoner of war who spent nearly five years apart from his family during World War II, this endearing eatery is run by his grandson, Jamie Miller. On offer are five “full English” breakfast options (all under £8, including tea), as well as Bovril, a hot drink made from beef extract. Surrounded by the voices and laughter of other diners, I devoured my crumpets, drained my milky tea (£2.75 for both), wiped the melted butter from my chin and returned to the counter for more.